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National Tourism Guide

INDIA 2008
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   Orcha, the ancient capital of the Bundela chieftain Raja Rudra Pratap ruminates over its colourful past by the bend of the picturesque Betwa River in Madhya Pradesh. Strung along its embankments the brooding palaces of Bundela chiefs with their architectural beauty and marvelous murals, have, down the decades, become a must-visit for global travelers doing the Madhya Pradesh tour that links up with Gwalior, Shivpuri, Chanderi, Jhansi and Khaujraho.

The Mughal Emperor Jehangir, who was on good terms with the illustrious Bundela Raja Bir Singh Deo (who ruled for 22 years) came here as a guest. An elaborate gateway and stunning murals mark the way to the splendid apartments - the Jehangir Mahal, set aside for the royal visitor. You can still see the original turquoise tile work on the multi-tiered mahal's façade. The Bundela's remained on cordial terms with the Mughal's from the time of Akbar, but with the Emperor Aurangzeb ascending the throne in Delhi, relations between the two deteriorated and the Bundela's had to flee Orcha.

One of Orcha's most spiritual rajas was Madhukar Shah, Bir Deo's predecessor, who not only completed Rudra Pratap's opulent Raja Mahal (the king was killed in an encounter with a tiger), but also built many of its temples. The Rani-ka-Mahal, his queen's residence, display her deep devotion to Lord Ram, in the vivid murals of scenes from the Ramayana and the Dasavatars of Vishnu in her bedrooms. The Raja Mahal itself is an opulent confabulation of staterooms and pretty balconies and ceilings lavishly embellished. The murals here are remarkably well preserved.Of particular interest is the lovely painted Praveen Mahal, the private residence of the Bundela queens.One of these old palaces of Orcha, the Sheesh Mahal, has now been converted into a tourist hotel and you can contact the reception for a guided tour of the palaces, temples and havelis of Orcha.

The grandeur of the palaces is well-matched by its temples such as the Laxminarayan Temple with its vibrant murals- still in mint condition. This is Orcha's primary temple marked by a unique architectural form and lavishly covered in the Orcha school style of painting. The largest temple in Orcha is the Chatturbhuj Temple dominating the riverside skyline. Originally the temple was meant to house the idol of Lord Rama being brought from Ayodhya, but during the period it was being built the Rani-ka-Mahal became its temporary home. When the time came for it to be transferred to the temple the image refused to move- and so the Lord continues to reside and be worshipped in the queen's palace to date.

Few people know that at Orcha the Ram Raja Temple, is India's only temple where Lord Rama is worshipped as a king and not as a god. Seated on an elaborate sinhasan (throne).and flanked in his durbar by his wife Sita and his brothers, Lord Hanuman and his courtiers, King Rama presides over his court. By the door of the inner sanctum of the shrine an armed guard stands vigil symbolizing the deity's unique status here. The morning and evening aarti time are very well-attended-the prasad devotees receive- surprisingly - a paan. The Ram Navami festivities are an exuberant display of devotion as the temple attracts devotees from near and far. The Vivaha Panchami Festivities (Nov/Dec) symbolize the nuptials of Ram and Sita amidst colourful revelry. Ram arrives in a splendid palki to wed his bride in the beautifully adorned Janaki Temple where she awaits his arrival with impatience.

Evocative against the sunset and early light of dawn, several chattris, commemorating the old Bundela kings line the riverside at the Kanchgha Ghat.

Getting There
Air: Nearest airport: Khajuraho
Rail: Nearest railhead: Jhansi (16km)
Road: Bus services are available from Gwalior. The tourist office here also arranges tours


 


 
 


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