Worldroom MICE Tourism Guide: India 2008


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	For ancient mariners heading for the shores of Utkala, present-day Orissa, during medieval times, it was like a beacon of hope. The Black Pagoda, so called as opposed to Puri's White Pagoda- the whitewashed Jagganath Temple-the mammoth sun temple of yesteryears may have lost much of its earlier glory as a paean to Surya- the Sun God - but we can still enjoy its legendary splendour bathed in the pearly light of dawn or the molten gold of a splendid sunset merging with the waters of the Bay of Bengal. Rated as one of the India's finest beaches the Chandrabhaga Beach at Konarak is home to one of the world's most dazzling architectural feats. The Konarak temple, despite the fact that it's partially in ruins, fully justifies its ranking as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Caught in a time warp, the monumental temple was commissioned by the Eastern Ganga King Narsimhadeva is said to have been built on the original site of a temple raised to Konarak-deva by King Purandarakesri, of the Kesari dynasty the Guptas are said to have ousted from the region known as an important centre for sun worship. In it was housed the original deity of the Kesaris. An Islamic attack on the temple with the death of Mukundraja was foiled, with the Muslim invaders escaping with the kalash and padmadhwaj. One of the reasons cited for its decline is the desecration of the temple by them. Its colossal grandeur had won the acclaim of earlier chroniclers - amongst them, Abul Fazl of Mughal Emperor Akbar's court and earlier, still Bengal's Vaishnava saint Chaitanya Mahaprabhu. Since its earliest times the temple has been imbued with a host of legends-one of the most popular being the that Surya is still calling to the sea nymph Chandrabhaga who vanished into the sea here after being pursued relentlessly by the love-sick god. The main temple has been envisaged as Surya's mighty chariot pulled by seven rearing steeds across the heavens. Held aloft on twelve pairs of massive stone wheels, richly carved and representing the march of time, the temple was in 1837 estimated by Raj era traveller James Fergusson to be between 42.67 and 45.72m in height. The salt-laden winds from the bay have played a large role in whittling away the edifice over time-Beaten but unbowed the temple engages the mind as it throws up the time-honoured debate on the heights of man's creativity as well as his destructive forces. The sheer scale of Konarak's proportions, both in design and size boggle the mind.The dramatic elements are provided the vast blue of the sea, the golden sands spreading as far as the eye can see, and the diurnal journey of the sun. Of the seven rearing horses hauling the chariot eastwards, only one is still intact. Richly symbolic the temple needs a careful study of its imaginative fusion of Hindu mythology and the cosmic significance of the sun's journey across the heavens, to fully comprehend its creative spirit and architectural genius. The seven steeds are said to represent the seven days of the week and the twelve pairs of wheels of the divine chariot, the months in the year. Over a century ago the main sikhara (spire) of the sanctuary of the temple collapsed but we can still visualize its original height from base to the top. By the eastern staircase of the porch used to be a free-standing pillar of chlorite crowned by the beautifully sculpted image of Aruna, the charioteer of the sun god. It is said to have been relocated in front of the main gate of Puri's famous Jagganath Temple to prevent its violation during the Muslims invasion. Of paramount interest too is the phenomenal range of sculpture and stone carvings at the temple site. Your first encounter with the sculptural art and its fabulous range comes from the dazzling work on the temple's exterior walls. The entire stony fa�ade throbs with life with this inspirational craftsmanship that is underplayed but hugely effective. If you look carefully you'll discover there is a predominance of several themes in the workmanship all round-the use of celestial musician-nymphs, deities, secular sculptures, creatures of the land, sea and sky, secular subjects, architectural motifs and decorative feature in geometric and floral patterns. The riveting sculptural embellishments include the famous erotic friezes outside the porch. There are friezes which also show the king going about his kingly duties both temporal and spiritual inside and outside his palace-there are royal hunts and colourful processions�there are military campaigns with a predominance of elephants and horses� then there's all that featured entertainment to keep you absorbed. It took years to work on such a mammoth project so it comes as no surprise that there is no one singular style or quality of workmanship which ranges from the mediocre to the excellent. Amongst the sculpted works the massive chariot wheels carved into the platform of the jagmohuna (porch) are almost real with their magnificent detailing with spokes and hubs lavishly embellished. Still in an excellent state of preservation is the jagmohuna or the assembly hall. The architectural and sculptural elements have seamlessly meshed to provide a beautiful structure that has stood the test of time. The best preserved door frame is the heavily carved eastern doorway. Look for the two colossal lions atop richly decorated crouching elephants at the main entrance of bhoga-mandapa with its highly carved pillars. A visit to the nearby museum can be a rewarding experience as it houses some important sculptures etc from the temple site. One of the best ways to enjoy the grand vista of this stunning temple site is to plan a visit is during the annual Konarak Dance Festival, featuring performances of some of India's top dance exponents against this backdrop by the sea. Dance was an integral part of temple culture and the ancient natamandir (dance hall) reverberates with the tinkle of ankle bells and musical instruments every winter. Take another look at those temple carvings and discover the graceful postures of the dancers and the musicians at play. The Oddissi dance form is Orissa's contribution to India's repertoire of the performing arts and this is the best place to see it in its element. HOW TO REACH By Air: Nearest airport: Bhubaneswar (64 kms) is serviced by flights from Kolkata , Delhi, Hyderabad, Madras and Nagpur. By Rail: Nearest railhead: Puri (31km) and Bhubaneswar. By Road: Konark is well-connected by regular bus-services with Puri, Bhubaneswar and other major places in Orissa.